East Coast (north to south) The east coast beaches contrast with the more tourist-frequented west and south coast destinations. Fewer people, less infrastructure and just the simple beauty of the white sands and calm ocean during the “season” is what you get on the east coast. Remember that the “season” on the east coast is the opposite to that of the south west coast – May through to September, though June, July, August are possibly optimum. During the southern monsoon when seas are choppy Trincomalee and the east is in its prime.

Nilaveli & Uppuveli (280 km north-east of Colombo)
The adjacent beaches of Nilaveli and Uppuveli north of Trincomalee, together 6km in length, are the most favoured by visitors to the region. Nilaveli, especially, has one of the finest beaches in Sri Lanka - the expansive stretches of the island’s typical soft white sand are an ideal location for swimming and sunbathing. From here you can hire a boat to take you to nearby Pigeon Island – so-called because it is home to the rare Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) - which is good for diving and snorkelling.

A more attractive alternative is Coral Island, a few kilometres north of Nilaveli, which unlike Pigeon Island cannot be landed on, but which has a well-preserved reef containing the beautiful cabbage coral and a marvellous variety of dazzling tropical fish. Coral Island is considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s best snorkelling spot. However, the water over the reef becomes quite shallow at low tide, so precautions must be taken not only to avoid cuts and scrapes but also ensure no coral – nowadays so vulnerable – is damaged.

The Kanniyai Hot Springs are 8km from Nilaveli. There are seven springs, which are more like wells in a small compound. The water is indeed warm and if large crowds are there it can be a fight to get your hands on the bucket to dip into the well. It is a public mixed bathing area - a sarong, shorts or swimming costume is required. There are several Hindu legends surrounding the creation of the wells. Some believe it was due to Vishnu, others that it was legendary King Ravana of the epic poem Ramayana. Many Sri Lankan pilgrims – regardless of religion –visit the hot springs early in the morning to bathe before proceeding to worship at the Tirukoneswaram kovil in the fort of Trincomalee. It is also believed the waters have therapeutic value especially for those with body aches associated with conditions like arthritis and rheumatism.

Another site of interest is the carefully maintained Commonwealth War Cemetery at Uppuveli. Buried at this memorial are Allied service personnel who lost their lives during the Japanese aerial attack on Trincomalee in April 1942. If the caretaker or his wife is around they will show the register that lists all those buried there, including members of the crew of HMS Hermes, the firat purpose built aircraft carrier that was sunk by Japanese planes north of Batticaloa.

Trincomalee (257km north-east of Colombo)
Trincomalee, or “Trinco” the popular shortened form, has a history extending well beyond its Portuguese, Dutch, British and even French occupations. In ancient times Trincomalee was known as Gokanna and its harbour was recognised very early on as a significant one by the kings of that period.

Almost equally represented in number, communities of Sinhalese, Tamils and Muslims live in Trincomalee. You will notice the particular characteristics of each group in various parts of the town from the obvious Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils and Islamic mosques to the chosen dress and language of locals. This diversity, together with its history, makes Trinco an absorbing place to spend a few days.

A highlight is Fort Frederick. For an introduction into its colourful history read the plaque on the entrance gate archway – the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British jostled for it from 1623 until 1895, when the British captured it for good.

The fort is still being used by the military, though one can walk through it. Inside it is shady with huge banyan trees providing the comforting canopy. At the top of Fort Frederick is Swami Rock and the Tirukoneswaram Kovil, an ancient Hindu temple. It’s gorgeous location high above the sea - you should visit between a 4.30pm and 6.30pm..

Stand behind the kovil and look over the edge down to the sea some 100m below and watch the colourful fishing boats come in close to the rocks with burning incense on the bow, the fishermen saying a small prayer, some of them smashing a coconut against the rocks for extra blessings.

The original kovil, said to have been built thousands of years BC, was demolished in the early part of the 17th century by the Portuguese who pushed it over the edge of the cliff into the sea. The temple’s focus point for devotion is the phallic symbol for Shiva, the lingam.

Visitors to Trinco are easily enraptured by the region’s quiet beaches that it makes it difficult to think about anything other than lazing in the sand, swimming, water-sports such as diving, or going on a whale-watching expedition. However, as with most places in Sri Lanka, a little exploration can uncover any number of treasures.

For instance, try the magnificent ruins of Velgam Vihara, built around 1st AD, and 13km west of the town. Among the ruins are the remains of a large dagoba and several other structures, including at least two small Buddha statues. The site was declared an archaeological reserve in 1934.